A First Mate called Hydrovane
After spending four years based at Sines Marina, I practically felt like a local, always keeping an ear out for any new boats or news along this stretch of coast. While strolling along the dock, I ran into Flavio, one of the marina staff. He let me know they were expecting a solo sailor whose rudder was damaged and who was heading to Sines to get it hauled out of the water. I got myself ready to lend a hand in any way I could.
While strolling along the dock, I ran into Flavio, one of the marina staff. He let me know they were expecting a solo sailor whose rudder was damaged by orcas and who was heading to Sines to get it hauled out of the water. I got myself ready to lend a hand in any way I could.
Since I always had my car handy for my regular trips to Lisbon for my physical therapy, I ended up being like the unofficial Uber for the marina. I'd drive the sailors around to go shopping, see the sights, or grab a bite at a local restaurant.
This really helped me pick up on what they had to say and understand their journeys, always picking up valuable lessons from what they'd been through. Daniel, for instance, was a master at sailing solo, and he was super experienced and happy to pass on what he knew.
He was totally amazed by the Hydrovane, really stressing how useful it is. He said it's like having an extra hand on deck, and it's a real comfort knowing you've got a backup for steering when things start to go bad.
He invited me to check out his boat and offered some ideas on how I could adjust mine to sail it by myself. He even gave me a whole list of suggested modifications to make sailing easier on long trips. But the absolute best part was when he asked me to join him on the next leg to Lagos, which was his last stop before heading across the Atlantic again. This way, I could see firsthand how the windvane actually worked.
Já no regresso o guia finalmente consegue acalmar a mulher, oiço risos do lado de lá... fico feliz por ele. Deve-se ter desculpado com a lua cheia :)
Eu volto ao hotel, tomo um duche, um café e sigo viagem para a costa este. Ainda tenho 4 horas de luz, mais do que suficiente para chegar a tempo de um mergulho nas areias de Manakara. Pelo caminho tenho provavelmente a mais bela estrada de Madagáscar e umas das mais bonitas que fiz... e já fiz algumas :)
Uma serpente cinza que percorre vales profundos, abertos por rios revoltos, e que contorna montanhas cobertas de floresta com picos de basalto polido pela erosão de milhões de anos. Pouco a pouco abrem-se horizontes de savana verde, bonita, com montanhas mais baixas e separadas por vales de palmeiras de aspecto jurássico. Jurassic Park, é isso! Ou foi filmado aqui ou inspirado neste lugar, as paisagens são incrivelmente parecidas. Só faltam os Raptors a correr pela erva alta.
As pessoas também mudam, são aparentemente mais pobres que no planalto central, andam descalças, vivem em cabanas de madeira e bamboo com telhados de junco. Em contrapartida têm bastante mais que apenas arroz, a floresta dá-lhes uma quantidade e variedade de fruta tal que deixaria qualquer frutaria roxa de inveja. O sorriso continua o mesmo, o sorriso e os carros de madeira que ajudam a transportar tudo empurram-se nas subidas, vai-se à boleia nas decidas. Alguns são bastante completos e detalhados.
Chego a Manakara a tempo de mergulho e de uma cerveja com um motociclista francês que chegou pouco antes de mim.
Escolhemos o mesmo hotel, o único da cidade em frente ao mar e provavelmente o melhor da região. Nada mau para os 15 euros que custa :) Agora é só encomendar a lagosta, lí algures que faz muito bem ao intestino solto lol
